Sunday, 2 March 2014

great expectations: the oscars edition

I ALWAYS FIND THAT THE OSCARS, MORE THAN ANY OTHER PROLIFIC AWARD SHOW, HAS A LITTLE SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. EVEN IF YOU REALLY DON'T CARE WHAT FOREIGN FILM WINS AND THE LABEL ON THE BACK OF MERYL STREEP'S DRESS IS THE LEAST OF YOUR CONCERNS, IT'S OK BECAUSE JENNIFER LAWRENCE WILL BE THERE AND THAT'S ENOUGH TO KEEP EVERYONE INTERESTED. 

I HAPPEN TO CARE ABOUT ALL OF THE ABOVE BUT MOSTLY THE LATTER AND LESS OF THE FOREIGN FILM, SO I'VE DECIDED TO STAY UP TONIGHT AND WATCH THE WHOLE DAMN THING, WHICH IS A FIRST FOR ME. MY GOOD PAL EVE, ALSO SIGNED AWAY HER SOUL TO THE OSCARS TONIGHT, WHICH IS FORTUNATE AND MEANS I WON'T BE LEFT EATING DOMINOS AT 1AM BY MYSELF. 

THERE WILL BE UPS AND DOWNS IN THE NIGHT AND MOST IMPORTANTLY THERE WILL BE COFFEE. BELOW I HAVE LISTED WHAT I BELIEVE TO BE THE MOST ANTICIPATED MOMENTS OF THE NIGHT.

JARED LETO'S MAN BUN IS POSSIBLY THE MOST EXCITING THING TO HAPPEN TO AWARD SHOW FASHION SINCE LADY GAGA WAS CARRIED IN ON AN EGG TO THE GRAMMYS. IT SADLY SKIPPED AN APPEARANCE AT THE SAG AWARDS BUT HERE'S HOPING JARED WILL HAVE HEARD THE DISAPPOINTED SIGHS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WHEN HE ARRIVED WITHOUT IT THAT NIGHT. HIS OSCAR WIN WOULD MEAN EVEN MORE TO ME IF THE MAN BUN IS PRESENT.

ALTHOUGH JENNIFER LAWRENCE MAY BE APPEALING IN PERSONALITY, TALENT AND LOOKS, FOR SOME, THIS PACKAGE IS JUST TOO BIG. AFTER WINNING BOTH THE GOLDEN GLOBE AND THE BAFTA, AND RECEIVING PLENTY OF SCATHING COMMENTS FOR IT, I FEAR FOR THE AMOUNT OF BACKLASH THAT SHE WILL GET FOR RECEIVING A SECOND OSCAR. MAYBE IF SHE FALLS UP THE STAIRS AGAIN, PEOPLE WILL GO EASIER ON HER.

IF LEONARDO DICAPRIO DOESN'T WIN THE OSCAR, A SIMILAR SORT OF BACKLASH WILL BE ALL OVER OUR SOCIAL MEDIA BUT IN A MUCH MORE INSUFFERABLE FASHION. THERE WILL BE JOKES. THERE WILL BE MEMES. LIKE IT'LL BE PAINFUL FOR LEONARDO, BUT IT'LL WORSE FOR MY PATIENCE.

LAURA BROWN - EXECUTIVE EDITOR OF HARPERS BAZAAR - IS ONE OF MY ALL TIME FAVOURITE PEOPLE. SHE HAS THAT SHARP WIT THAT WE ALL WANT TO POSSESS BUT SIMPLY CANNOT ATTAIN (SEE HER INTERVIEW WITH MILEY, ALEXA CHUNG AND MY OTHER COMPLETE FAV, LEANDRA MEDINE). AS FAR AS I KNOW, SHE IS TAKING OVER THE E! RED CARPET TONIGHT WHICH I AM SO EXCITED ABOUT. HAVING SOMEONE TALK ABOUT FASHION, WHO ACTUALLY KNOWS THEIR SHIT ABOUT FASHION, WILL BE A NICE CHANGE (#SHAAAAAAADE).

THE TRIBUTE TO THE LATE PHILLIP SEYMOUR HOFFMAN IS AN INEVITABILITY AND IT'S GOING TO BE REALLY FUCKING HEARTBREAKING. OSCAR TRIBUTES ARE USUALLY REALLY TASTEFUL THOUGH (DO WE ALL REMEMBER HEATH LEDGERS TRIBUTE? DEM TEARS) SO HE WILL UNDENIABLY GET THE TRIBUTE HE DESERVES. IT WILL BE INTERESTING TO SEE IF THEY'LL GIVE CORY MONTEITH THE RECOGNITION HE DESERVES ALSO. 

2013 BROUGHT ABOUT LUPITA NYONG'O'S RAPID RISE TO FAME. HER FIRST FEATURE FILM, '12 YEARS A SLAVE' HAS GRANTED HER THE APPROVAL OF THE ACADEMY AWARDS, AND HER ACCOMPANYING RED CARPET APPEARANCES OF SAID FILM HAS GRANTED HER THE APPROVAL OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY. HER CONTINUED BRAZEN APPROACH TO STYLE IS EARNING HER MAJOR FASHION CREDIT, I MEAN THAT GOLDEN GLOBES DRESS WAS ICONIC. I EXPECT NO LESS FROM HER TONIGHT. 

I STILL REMAIN IN THE SMALL BRACKET OF PEOPLE WHO HAVEN'T SEEN 'FROZEN', IT'S NOT A POLITICAL CHOICE OR ANYTHING, IT'S JUST THAT I HAVEN'T GOTTEN AROUND TO IT. BUT EVE IS QUITE A FANGIRL AND EVEN FOUND SOME SORT OF PERVERSE JOY IN WATCHING THE NOMINATED SONG IN 25 LANGUAGES. NEEDLESS TO SAY, I WAS NOT HALF AS AMUSED WHEN SHE SENT IT ON TO ME TO WATCH. IDINA'S MENZEL'S RENDITION OF 'LET IT GO' TONIGHT IS GOING TO VIOLENTLY BREAK HEARTS IN THE DOLBY THEATRE TONIGHT, BUT PARTICULARLY IN MY SITTING ROOM. 

THERE ARE RUMOURS THAT LADY GAGA WILL BE MAKING AN APPEARANCE ON THE RED CARPET TONIGHT AND SO ANOTHER HEART WILL BE BREAKING IN MY SITTING ROOM. I PHYSICALLY AND MENTALLY CANNOT COPE WITH THE IDEA OF THIS POTENTIAL APPEARANCE. CHANCES ARE SHE'LL WEAR VERSACE AND SHE'LL BE WITH TAYLOR AND UGH CHRIST, MY POOR HEART. 

EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD TEARY SPEECH, ESPECIALLY WHEN ITS COMING FROM AN UGLY CRIER. NOTHING BETTER THAN SEEING THE EPHEMERAL BEAUTY THAT ACTRESSES HOLD SO SUPERIORLY OVER US ALL, COME CRUMBLING DOWN AROUND THEM. BUT THEN THERE'S THOSE SPEECHES THAT ARE SO SINCERE AND MOVING THAT THEY MAKE YOU LOVE THEM EVEN MORE (SEE JARED LETO'S SPEECH AT THE SAG AWARDS). WHILE WE'RE ON THE TOPIC OF SPEECHES, IF LEONARDO DOES IN FACT WIN, I HOPE MAKES A WONDERFULLY AWKWARD JOKE ABOUT NO LONGER BEING AN OSCAR VIRGIN.

ELLEN DEGENERES HAS ALL THE INGREDIENTS OF BEING A GREAT OSCAR HOST. HER DELIVERY IS SHARP AND HER HUMOUR IS INOFFENSIVE AND MOST OF THE TIME IT'S NOT EVEN TOO CORNY. WHICH IS GOOD. AND CONSIDERING PAST HOSTS I.E THE DISASTROUS COMBINATION OF JAMES FRANCO AND ANNE HATHAWAY IN 2011 AND SETH MACFARLENE'S PETTY ATTEMPT AT BEING A HOST LAST YEAR, SHE DOESN'T HAVE A LOT TO LIVE UP TO.

THE AWKWARDNESS SURROUNDING WOODY ALLEN RIGHT NOW IS SO REAL. THE AWKWARDNESS WRITING ABOUT IT IS ALSO SO REAL. LET'S JUST HOPE THAT EVER-GRACEFUL CATE BLANCHETT WILL KNOW WHAT TO SAY IF HER NAME GETS CALLED OUT TONIGHT.  

SO, ON THAT NOTE, LET THE NIGHT COMMENCE. 

Saturday, 1 March 2014

milan fashion week - fall/winter 2014

MILAN FASHION WEEK IS OLD NEWS AT THIS STAGE BUT WHILE WE'RE DREAMING ABOUT PARISIAN CLOTHES IT'S IMPORTANT NOT TO DISMISS WHAT WENT DOWN IN MILAN. IT'S ACTUALLY BEEN A REAL STRUGGLE TO CHOOSE MY TOP TEN FAVOURITES FROM MILAN'S OFFERINGS, FALL 2014 PROVED AN EXCEPTIONAL TURNOUT FOR ITALY, BUT ALAS THE DEED IS DONE. NO INTENTIONAL SHADING TO THOSE WHO DIDN'T MAKE THE CUT.

ALBERTA FERRETTI'S COLLECTION WAS A GROVE OF AFFLUENT BOTANICAL PRINT, A WOODY PALETTE AND INTRICATE DETAILING. TEXTURE REMAINED THE MOST IMPORTANT FACET OF THIS COLLECTION: WOOLLEN COATS WERE LIKENED TO TREE BARKS LACED WITH MOSS AND VINES WITH THE USE OF SOPHISTICATED EMBROIDERY, WHILE HEAVILY FRINGED FELTED WOOL DRESSES EMPHASISED THAT TOUGH, WOODEN TEXTURE. THE COLLECTION WAS AN UNDYING LOVE LETTER TO THE FOREST YET, THE CORE ESSENCE OF FERRETTI WAS STILL VERY MUCH WOVEN THROUGH THE COLLECTION AND TYPICAL ITALIAN GLAMOUR MANIFESTED ITSELF IN THE GRACEFUL MULTI-LAYERED LACE GOWNS THAT CLOSED THE SHOW.

MOSCHINO WAS AN EXPLOSIVE COLLISION OF TACKY POP CULTURE SYMBOLS WITH THE TACKIEST AND BLINGY-EST PARTS OF THE MOSCHINO BRAND LACED WITH A TOUCH OF CHANEL. TO SAY JEREMY SCOTT'S DEBUT AT MOSCHINO WAS A PARADOXICAL MESS, WOULD BE A MAJOR UNDERSTATEMENT. BUT WE THANK HIM FOR THAT. MILAN IS KNOWN FOR IT'S ELEGANCE AND CRAFTSMANSHIP, SO WHEN A MODEL OPENS A SHOW DRESSED IN THE INFAMOUS CHANEL UNIFORM THAT'S UNEXPECTEDLY RUBBERY AND VERY RONALD MCDONALD, IT'S QUITE SHOCKING. SCOTT'S HANDLING OF THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN A CONSUMER AND IT'S JUNK PRODUCTS WAS PRECISE AND EXTREMELY RELEVANT, AND EVEN THROUGH IT'S WACKINESS, THE COLLECTION REMAINED QUITE THOUGHT PROVOKING PARTICULARLY SINCE 9 PIECES FROM THE SHOW HAVE ALREADY BEEN MADE AVAILABLE FOR SALE. IS THIS A COMMENT ON HOW IMPOSSIBLY FAST FASHION HAS BECOME? OR IS JEREMY SCOTT SIMPLY JUST HAVING FUN AT HIS NEW HOME? REGARDLESS, HE DEFINITELY SERVED UP SOME FOOD FOR THOUGHT WITH THIS DEBUT.

FANTASY WAS THE THEME THAT PERMEATED DOLCE AND GABBANA'S FALL COLLECTION. THE SOUNDTRACK BEGAN WITH THE NUTCRACKER AND THE STORY ENDED WITH RED RIDING HOOD FLEEING THE RUNWAY. AS WELL AS THIS, MUCH LIKE ALBERTA FERRETTI, THE ITALIAN DESIGN DUO HEARD THAT CALL FROM NATURE THIS SEASON. D&G'S FLORAL EMBROIDERY WAS A LOT MORE FANTASTICAL THAN FERRETTI'S REALIST APPROACH BUT IT WAS APTLY FITTING TO THE D&G'S STRONG THEME. THE COLLECTION SPANNED OVER 70 LOOKS, A FAIRY TALE CUMULATION OF BEJEWELLED CHAINMAIL-ESQUE HOODS AND DECADENT GOWNS ALL THE WHILE INCLUDING SOME OF D&G'S GREATEST HITS SUCH AS, THE KNICKER SHORTS, THE WIDE A-LINE DRESSES AND A SIGNATURE USE OF LACE. EVEN THROUGH A LIVE STREAM, THE COLLECTION TOLD A POWERFUL TALE ESPECIALLY WITH A FINALE SO IRREVERENT AND SHINY.

THE MSGM COLLECTION DIDN'T STRAY TOO FAR FROM IT'S TRADEMARK USE OF CLASHING PRINTS, AND THANK GOD FOR THAT. WHAT STRUCK ME MOST ABOUT THIS COLLECTION WAS THE SULKY COLOUR PALETTE USED THROUGHOUT, THE STEADY TRANSITION FROM DARK REDS INTO EMERALD GREENS INTO BISCUIT TONES (AND THEN A FABULOUS PINK FLUFFY COAT JUST BECAUSE). BUT THE FLUENT(ISH) FLOW OF COLOURS THROUGH THE COLLECTION WAS THE ONLY SIGN OF CONTROL HERE, THE FABRICS USED AND THE ACTUAL STYLING OF THE COLLECTION (SEE: A FLORAL SWEATER WITH DASHINGS OF PAINT, COUPLED WITH A SEQUINED SKIRT AND FURRY SHOES) WAS PRETTY ERRATIC. BUT IT WAS ALSO PRETTY WONDERFUL.

PRADA THIS SEASON WAS SEXY AND FEMININE BUT IT WASN'T AFRAID TO GET DOWN AND DIRTY EITHER. THE COLLECTION SHOWED SHEER DRESSES AND DEEP V NECKED WOOL SWEATERS - LEAVING VERY LITTLE TO THE IMAGINATION. YET IT WOULD BE DIFFICULT TO MAKE A CASE FOR THE COLLECTION BEING OVERTLY SENSUAL OR TOO PROVOCATIVE. MIUCCIA HINDERED THE COLLECTION WITH A DARK SHADOW WHICH WAS AN INTERESTING CHANGE FROM THE POP-ART FEELS OF HER SPRING SHOW LAST OCTOBER. THE COLLECTION PRESENTED A DESIRABLE SOPHISTICATION AND A RAW EDGE THAT ONLY MIUCCIA PRADA COULD BE CREDITED WITH. NEVER HAVE NECK SCARVES LOOKED SO GOOD.

THIS SEASON, GIORGIO ARMANI SENT OUT 50 SHADES OF GREY AND A FEW GREENS. THE DULL, PLAIN COLOUR PALETTE IMPLIED THAT THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE COLLECTION LAY IN THE ARCHITECTURE: THE CUT, THE FIT, THE COMFORT. IN HIS OWN SPECIAL MILANESE FASHION, ARMANI MADE CASHMERE SUITS SEXY. HE MADE A PINSTRIPE HYBRID SUIT JACKET LOOK SEXY. HE MADE AN ANKLE LENGTH, BEDAZZLED, MINT SKIRT LOOK SEXY, WHICH I THINK IS THE REAL WINNER HERE. BUT THE SEX APPEAL WAS A SECONDARY ASPECT IN THIS COLLECTION, THE COLLECTION WAS A REINVENTION OF THE WORKING WOMAN'S UNIFORM. FOR FALL 2014, GIORGIO ARMANI HAS PUT THE POWER IN CORPO(WER)RATE.

MARNI'S COLLECTION BROUGHT TOGETHER THE ELEGANT AND THE UTILITARIAN WITH SHARP CUTS AND LUSCIOUS FURS. COLOURS WERE SPONTANEOUS BUT FITTING IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES AND LET US NOT FORGET THE OUTBREAK OF TEXTURE FOR THE CLOSING LOOKS. THE COLLECTION WAS A REAL EXPLORATION OF WOMEN AND PERHAPS YOU COULD ARGUE THAT CASTIGLIONI DEVIATED A LITTLE TOO FAR FROM THE TYPE OF WOMAN SHE USUALLY DRESSES, BUT I THINK THE FACT THAT SHE MADE SWEATPANTS LOOK CHIC, IS ENOUGH TO REFUTE ANY ARGUMENT.

FENDI SUPPLIED ONE OF THE MOST INSTAGRAMABLE RUNWAY IMAGES OF THE SEASON: CARA DELEVINGNE HOLDING A MINI (FURRY) KARL LAGERFELD DOLL. IT'S REALLY THE TWO MOST FETISHISED PEOPLE IN FASHION, COMING TOGETHER, IN FURRINESS. THIS COLLECTION SHOWED THAT KARL LAGERFELD IS STILL UNABASHEDLY HUMOROUS AND CAN BE SO WITHOUT MAKING A MOCKERY OF THE CLOTHES. THE MAN IS SIMPLY UNRIVALLED. HIGHLIGHTS OF THE COLLECTION WERE FOUND IN THE MESH CUT OUT SWEATERS, THIGH HIGH BOOTS, HYPER-GRAPHICAL ARMY PRINTS AND LET'S NOT FORGET THE BRIEF SPOT OF ATHLETICISM. SOMEHOW THIS ALL WORKED TOGETHER WITH IMPECCABLE ELOQUENCE. THE MAN IS UNRIVALLED. AND NOBODY DARES TO CHALLENGE HIM.

VERSACE WAS SURPRISINGLY LAID BACK THIS SEASON. THE SHOW ALMOST ACTED AS A RESPONSE TO DONATELLA'S ULTRA-FORMAL COLLECTION FOR ATELIER VERSACE. DONATELLA, IN ALL HER WISDOM, SUCCESSFULLY PARED DOWN THE COLLECTION WITHOUT LOSING THE TOUCH OF ITALIAN CRAFTSMANSHIP. THE COLLECTION WAS A LOGICAL PROGRESSION OF 51 LOOKS, EACH WITH THEIR OWN INDIVIDUAL DIFFERENCES WITHOUT STRAYING TOO FAR FROM THE ULTIMATE MESSAGE OF THE COLLECTION. THE GOLD BUTTONS INDICATED SOME MASCULINE MILITARY VIBES BUT COMBINED WITH THE FLATTERING BIAS-CUT OF THE DRESSES, AND THE VARYING COLOUR PALETTE THOUGHOUT, THERE WAS ABSOLUTE NOTHING GENDER BLURRING ABOUT THIS COLLECTION. IF ANYTHING IT WAS AN HONOURABLE SALUTE TO THE POWER OF FEMININITY.

UGH, I CANNOT EVEN EXPRESS MY LOVE FOR THIS COLLECTION WITH JUST MERE WORDS, BUT I WILL TRY MY BEST. ALESSANDRO DEL'ACQUA'S FALL SHOW WAS BOTH GRUNGEY AND LEISURELY BUT GLAMOUROUS IN ALL THE RIGHT PLACES. THE COLLECTION STRETCHED FROM GLITZY, SLOUCHY LOW-RISES TO A FULL-ON FEATHER SKIRT TOPPED WITH A SEQUINED SHIRT. THE COLLECTION REMAINED GLORIOUSLY TOMBOYISH IN A MANNER THAT I'VE NEVER REALLY SEEN BEFORE, ALTHOUGH MOST OF THAT CAME DOWN TO THE STYLING OF EACH MODEL. ON CLOSE INSPECTION, EACH INDIVIDUAL PIECE COULD BE STYLED TO THE CONSUMERS OWN PARTICULAR, TASTE, SO IF A GLITZY TOMBOY ISN'T HOW YOU'D DESCRIBE YOUR STYLE, YOU'RE IN LUCK. IT IS HERE THAT LIES THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE COLLECTION.

Thursday, 20 February 2014

london fashion week - fall/winter 2014

LONDON COULD MAKE A STRONG CASE FOR BEING THE MOST ENTHRALLING OUT OF THE FOUR FASHION WEEKS. IT'S PENCHANT FOR INNOVATION AND BOLDNESS WAS EVER-PRESENT, BUT THERE WAS A SURPRISING GROWTH AND MATURING FROM MANY DESIGNERS THIS SEASON. FURTHER SURPRISES FROM THE WEEK INCLUDED: ANOTHER APPEARANCE FROM KENDALL JENNER, AN INSTA-INCEPTION MOMENT FROM GILES DEACON, A DYNAMIC CARA DELEVINGNE WHO NOT ONLY RESUMED HER ROLE AS PROLIFIC MODEL BUT ALSO FOUNDED THE CARA BAG ALL THE WHILE A RENEWED SENSE OF FEMINISM BECAME THE OVERARCHING SPIRIT OF THE WEEK.

SINCE IT'S ESTABLISHMENT IN 2005, TOPSHOP UNIQUE HAS THREADED TIGHTLY ON THE LINE BETWEEN HIGH FASHION DESIGN AND HIGH STREET DESIGN. THIS COLLECTION SUSTAINED THAT BALANCE OF  LUXURY THROUGH IT'S PATCHWORK FUR COATS,  IT'S EMBELLISHED SHEER TOPS AND IT'S SLOUCHY TAILORED COATS, WHILE WEARABLE PUFFER JACKETS, SHORTS AND GRUNGE SLIP DRESSES WALKED ALONGSIDE THEM. ADMITTEDLY IT WAS DIFFICULT TO DISCERN THE REAL THEME OR THE TYPE OF WOMAN TOPSHOP WAS DESIGNING FOR WHICH PERHAPS INDICATES THAT THE LABEL WAS PROMOTING VERSATILITY AND CHOICE AMONGST ITS CONSUMER. THIS WOULD MAKE A LOT OF SENSE CONSIDERING THE STRONG SOUNDTRACK GAME THAT DOMINATED THE SHOW. WHEN A DIVERSELY DRESSED, ARMY OF WOMEN STEP IN TURN TO BEYONCE'S FEMINIST ANTHEM, YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHO RUNS THE WORLD.

YOU CAN ALWAYS COUNT ON J.W. ANDERSON SHOWS TO PROBE AND PROVOKE IT'S AUDIENCE, EVEN IF YOU'RE WATCHING FROM A SHOWSTUDIO LIVESTREAM. THIS SEASON HIS DESIGNS CONTINUED TO PERTURB THROUGH THEIR ANGULAR SILHOUETTES AND AWKWARD TAILORING  (IT CAN'T HAVE JUST BEEN ME TO NOTICE THE AWKWARDNESS THAT LOOK 23 INDUCED). THAT BEING SAID THE COLLECTION WAS A SMOOTH GROWTH FOR THE BRAND, AN ECHOING OF HIS TORTURED SPRING/SUMMER 14 COLLECTION WAS SEEN IN THE TWISTED SHERLING CURLED AROUND THE MODELS ARM BUT THE LENGTHENED SKIRTS AND DRESSES PROGRESSED THE AESTHETIC ON A LITTLE BIT MORE. ON FIRST IMPRESSIONS J.W. ANDERSON'S COLLECTIONS APPEAR OVERTLY CONCEPTUAL, BUT THERE'S ALWAYS KEY COMMERCIAL PIECES IN THERE, HIDDEN LIKE GEMS, A FACET THAT MAKES HIS SHOWS SO INCOMPARABLE.

CHRISTOPHER KANE HAS VERY QUICKLY BECOME ONE OF THE HEADLINING ACTS OF LONDON FASHION WEEK AND UNLIKE, ARCTIC MONKEYS AT ELECTRIC PICNIC, HE DID NOT DISAPPOINT. HE NEVER EVER DOES, COME TO THINK OF IT. THIS SEASON CHRISTOPHER KANE SHOWED A TOUGH FEMININITY THAT ENHANCED THE REOCCURRING FEMINIST MOVEMENT BOUNCING AROUND LONDON THIS WEEK. HIS, TOOK THE FORM OF GENDER BLURRING PANT-SUITS AND OFFBEAT COMBINATIONS OF PATENT AND FUR. YET, THERE WAS AN UNDERLYING ROMANCE TO THIS COLLECTION THAT SOMEHOW STILL RETAINED A DEGREE OF CONFIDENCE AND UNRESTRAINT - THE SHARP CUT OF THE SOFT ORGANZA SQUARES, SHOULD INSTANTLY COME TO MIND. THE COLLECTION ALSO SHOWED KANE'S FIRST RANGE OF HANDBAGS, REMINDING US ALL THAT THE BRAND HAS STILL SO MUCH MORE TO OFFER. BUT, TO BE HONEST, I DON'T THINK ANYONE ACTUALLY NEEDED CONVINCING OF THIS.

SIMONE ROCHA HAS BEEN ONE OF MY ALL TIME FAVOURITE DESIGNERS EVER SINCE HER CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR TOPSHOP IN 2011. HER GROWTH AND PROGRESS SINCE THEN HOWEVER HAS BEEN MONUMENTAL. HER FALL 2014 COLLECTION PUSHED HER ON JUST THAT BIT FURTHER, I MEAN IF ANNA WINTOUR IS SITTING ON YOUR F-ROW, YOU'VE FUCKING MADE IT. THIS SEASON, SHE TOOK A VERY 16TH CENTURY ELIZABETHAN AESTHETIC AND SUBVERTED IT INTO A VERY SIMONE ROCHA-N TOMBOY, PUNK DREAM. FOR THIS COLLECTION SIMONE STRAYED FROM HER USUAL INSPIRATION STEMMING FROM HER IRISH HERITAGE, AND INSTEAD ENTWINED TARTAN, MONARCHY AND A BRITISH FEMME FATALE ATTITUDE INTO HER DESIGNS. THAT BEING SAID, THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TACKY OR DISTASTEFUL IN HER HANDLING OF THESE INFLUENCES, INSTEAD THE COLLECTION RESULTED IN REMARKABLE DECADENCE WITH AN ACCOMPANYING PUNCH.

ALTHOUGH THERE WERE TIMES WHEN PALOMA FAITH'S NOTES WERE A LITTLE BIT UNCOMFORTABLE, THIS SEASON CHRISTOPHER BAILEY'S COLLECTION WAS ALL ABOUT THE COMFORT. IN FACT IT ALL FELT A LITTLE BIT BOHO-CHIC, BUT, IN A VERY BURBERRY WAY OF COURSE. THERE WAS A PAINTERLY QUALITY TO EVERYTHING THAT HIT THE RUNWAY AND PRINTS WERE EXCEEDINGLY RELAXED AND SURPRISINGLY MUTED CONSIDERING THEIR SCALE. THE STYLING THROUGHOUT COLLECTION WAS ALSO NOTEWORTHY, THE OVERTLY FLOWING SCARVES PLACED OVER A SPRAWLING COLLAR ONLY TO BE GATHERED IN NEATLY AT THE WAIST MADE FOR A BEAUTIFUL SILHOUETTE. THE REAL SUPERSTARS OF THE COLLECTION HOWEVER WERE THE HIGHLY DISTINCTIVE (AND HIGHLY COMMERCIAL) PAINTED HANDBAGS AND OF COURSE, THE PERSONALISED CAPES. SERIOUSLY, FEELING THE SNUGGIE LOOK FOR THIS FALL YOU GUYS.

THE DAVID KOMA SHOW WAS SHARP AND PRECISE. ALTHOUGH WE'RE ESSENTIALLY NOT SEEING ANYTHING TOO NEW HERE, I WOULD VOUCH THAT DAVID IS BECOMING MORE AND MORE PRECISE, HONING IN ON THAT AESTHETIC UNTIL HE PERFECTS IT. THE CAGING DETAIL ON THE DRESSES WAS DEVELOPED FURTHER FROM HIS SPRING WHILE PATCHES OF HORSE HAIR AND A SERIES OF DEEP PURPLE AND BLUE OUTFITS WERE UNIQUE TWISTS TO THE COLLECTION. THEN, THERE IS THAT ABOVE SILHOUETTE OF THE SHARPLY CUT SKATER DRESS WITH THE WIDENED SLEEVES, IT WAS FAB, FOR LACK OF A BETTER WORD. WITH THE MIXTURE OF PATENT AND LARGE CUT-OUTS, YOU'RE LOOKING AT AN OUTLANDISH AND HEAVILY SENSUAL COLLECTION, BUT IN THE HANDS OF DAVID KOMA, A SURPRISING TOUCH OF ELEGANCE IS FOUND.

THE COLLECTION WAS A RIOT OF COLOUR AND TEXTURE AND IN MY OPINION, REALLY MODERNISED THE WHOLE COLOUR BLOCKING THING. THE DIGITALISED PRINT WAS ECSTATIC AND IN MANY LOOKS IT APPEARED AS IF IT IT WAS ABOUT TO JUMP RIGHT OFF THE BODY. FORTUNATELY, AT THIS STAGE PETER PILOTTO AND DESIGN PARTNER, CHRISTOPHER DE VOS KNOW EXACTLY HOW TO HANDLE THIS LEVEL OF PRINT AND SO A VARIETY OF SIMPLY CUT, WEARABLE SHAPES OF CLOTHING WERE CHOOSEN TO CONTROL THEIR VOLTAIC PRINTS. THE FUR RIMMED SLEEVES AND COLLARS OF THE OPENING LOOKS WERE ENDEARING IN THEIR BIZARRENESS, BUT THE COLLECTION DEFINITELY CONTINUED INTO A MUCH MORE WEARABLE SPACE. THE COLLECTION OFFERED PRINTS THAT LONDON DESERVED, AND WELL, THAT LONDON CAN PULL OFF.

ON COMPARING THIS COLLECTION TO HIS SPRING 2014 COLLECTION YOU WILL NOTICE THAT ERDEM MORALIOGLU SEEMS TO HAVE OSCILLATED INTO A MUCH DARKER AND LUSTFUL FRAME OF MIND. THERE WAS A DELIBERATE DISHEVELMENT TO OTHERWISE CLASSIC SHAPED SMOCKS, THREADS HUNG LOOSE, FLOATING SEAMS AT SHOULDERS AND TEAR AWAY SLEEVES ON JACKETS WERE UNIQUE ADDITIONS TO UNMISTAKABLE GOTHIC INSPIRED APPLIQUE AND EMBROIDERY. REFASHIONING THE 16TH CENTURY ROYAL DRESS, WITHOUT STRIPPING THE GIRL OF HER POWER, WAS THE AIM HERE AND WAS PERHAPS BEST SEEN IN A VERY SIMPLY STYLED BLACK VELVET, HIGH COLLARED CAPE WITH NOTHING BUT HER BARE LEGS.

IN WHAT STARTED OUT AS AN UNASSUMING COLLECTION WITH THE QUIRKY TOUCH OF COWGIRL BOOTS, SLOWLY, AND THEN ALL-TOO QUICKLY TURNED INTO A CELEBRATION OF THE EXCESS AND THE ELABORATE. MONDAY SAW AN ALL ENCOMPASSING COMBINATION OF ONLY THE BOLDEST OF MATERIALS: ANIMAL PRINT FUR, VELVET, LEATHER AND SEQUINS. TOM FORD HAD ARRIVED. THERE WAS AN OVERBEARING AMERICAN PATRIOTISM TO THE COLLECTION THAT TOOK THE FORM OF INSPIRED 60'S AMERICAN STYLE ICONS, JAY-Z RELATED BASKETBALL JERSEYS, AND OF COURSE, THE AFOREMENTIONED COWGIRL BOATS. THE REAL BEAUTY OF THE COLLECTION LAY IN THE FACT THAT THERE WAS ABSOLUTELY NOTHING THAT WAS INACCESSIBLE IN THE COLLECTION, FORD IS A MASTER OF THE OTT BUT HE KNOWS WHAT CLOTHES EXCITE WOMAN. THIS FALL, JAY-Z WILL NOT BE THE ONLY ONE ROCKING TOM FORD.

SUNDAY WAS A PRETTY DULL DAY FOR ME, I WAS INCREDIBLY HUNGOVER AND, WELL YEAH THAT WAS PRETTY MUCH IT. I WAS HUNGOVER AND INCAPABLE OF MOVING OFF THE COUCH. ALTHOUGH DOWNING A BOTTLE OF FANTA HELPED, I KNEW I NEEDED THE BRIGHT, ECLECTIC PRINTS OF MARY KATRANTZOU TO GET ME OUT OF MY WILTED STATE. BUT TO MY - AND I'M PRETTY SURE EVERYONE'S - SURPRISE HER COLLECTION WAS OVERCAST WITH A STRANGELY SOMBRE MOOD. THE LABEL TOOK A TOTAL SWERVE FROM IT'S TYPICAL COLLAGE OF DIGITAL PRINTS, WHICH IF ANYTHING IS A SIGN OF REAL MATURING FOR THE DESIGNER. THE PRINT WAS NO LONGER JUST ON THE CLOTHES, THE PRINT BECAME THE CLOTHES. THE THREE-DIMENSIONAL FUSION OF GREEK SYMBOLS WITH EVERYDAY, GENERIC SYMBOLS LIKE 'SALE' AND 'STOP' SIGNS EMBELLISHED ON NONCHALANT SILHOUETTES WAS A STROKE OF GENIUS. MARY KATRANTZOU LIVED UP TO EXPECTATIONS BY DOING THE UNEXPECTED, WITHOUT LOSING ANY OF THE BRANDS AESTHETIC.

IT IS HERE THAT LIES THE DEFINING CHARACTERISTIC OF LONDON FASHION WEEK: A GROUP OF EVOLVING, DARING DESIGNERS, WHO KNOW EXACTLY WHAT THEY'RE DOING.